Modern Classic SLR Series
The Canon AE-1 - Camera Operation Part IV

 
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Detailed Operation of the AE-1

A silicon photocell is used as the photosensitive element in the camera. If you compare the silicon photocell (SPC) with other existing photo-sensitive elements, you will find it covers a greater range of lighting situations and allows for greater accuracy. In order to provide the AE-1 with the best possible magnetic release system, Canon developed a special circuit for instantaneous light metering, Due to this innovation, even in place as dark as EV1 (at ISO 100, f/1.4, 1 sec.), metering can be performed in only 0.04 second.

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Viewfinder Information

In keeping with Canon's standard of providing all relevant information in an easily readable format, all information is displayed on the right side of the viewfinder. The diagram below indicates the information provided and where it can be seen in the viewfinder.


Meter Sensitivity Pattern

Dome.jpg
In a great variety of lighting situations, the carefully designed Central Emphasis Metering system simplifies problems to ensure that the subject is correctly exposed.


Metering Range


TTL metering is possible with a f/1.4 lens at ISO 100 from EV 1 (1 sec., f/1.4) to EV 18 (1/1000 sec.. f/16).

ASA Film Speed

Coupling Range

25..50

2 to 1/1000 sec

..100

1 to 1/1000 sec

..200

1/2 to 1/1000 sec

..400

1/4 to 1/1000 sec

..800

1/8 to 1/1000 sec

..1600

1/15 to 1/1000 sec

..3200

1/30 to 1/1000 sec



Shutter Speed and AE Coupling Range The shutter speed and AE coupling range are indicated in the table. If any combination outside the coupling range is made, the coupling range warning lamp will blink, as it does when warning of underexposure. Since the lamp serves a dual function, check that the shutter speed IS within the coupling range before assuming that the light level is too low.

Overexposure Warning Mark When the lighting of the subject is too bright, the meter needle will rise into the red zones of the aperture scale. The red area is divided into two parts. The top part is a warning for use with a lens having a minimum aperture of f/22, while the bottom part is for use with a f/16 minimum aperture lens. When the meter needle enters the red area, incease the shutter speed and correct the exposure.

Note: With some specific lenses like the FD 100mm f/4 Macro lens, which offers a minimum aperture of f/32, if you want to photograph at its minimum aperture of f/32 and the meter needle points to the red area, do the following: Increase the shutter speed until the meter needle indicates f/22 and then decrease the shutter speed by one gradation so that the exposure will be correct.

Underexposure and Coupling Range Warning LED Lamp
This lamp blinks on and off as a warning of incorrect exposure. If you reduce the shutter speed by turning the shutter speed dial so the underexposure warning lamp will stop blinking, the correct exposure will also be obtained. Under dim light with a slow speed lens, there is a case when the meter needle will point at the aperture scale inside the viewfinder although it will exceed the maximum aperture of the lens. In this case, turn the shutter speed dial to a slower setting so that the underexposure warning lamp stops blinking.

For example, when you use an f/2.8 lens and the meter needle exceeds the aperture scale of f/2.8 inside the viewfinder, reduce the shutter speed until the lamp stops flashing. When the shutter is set at 'B' (Bulb) and the shutter button is pressed halfway, this warning lamp will also
flash on and off.

Meter bar.gif
Battery Check and Stopped-Down Metering Index Mark
This battery check index mark serves also as the stopped-down metering index mark for use with Canon FL lenses and other similar manual lenses, when exposure measurement is performed with a stopped-down diaphragm.

Manual Aperture Control "M" Signal (LED) When the aperture ring is not set at the "A" mark, you cannot get the correct exposure in AE photography. When the aperture ring is set at any position other than the "A" mark, the manual aperture control "M" signal will blink as a warning. Also, when Canon FL lenses, Bellows or the like are used, this warning signal flashes on and off when exposure measurement is performed.

Concerning the Exposure (Shutter Speed and Aperture Coupling) In order to obtain the correct exposure, it is necessary to correctly match the shutter speed with the aperture. The shutter speed and the aperture are the main factors in controlling the amount of light which is allowed to strike the film, and when they change, the quality of the image upon the film also changes.

1) Effects of Changing the Shutter Speed The explanations below are pertinent to photography with fast moving subjects or when it is intended to convey the feeling of movement in a photograph. If, as in example, a photo is taken at a shutter speed of 1/250 sec. and above, the movement will be frozen. If, with the same subject, the photo is taken at a speed of 1/60 sec. though the subject is somewhat blurred, movement is well expressed. It is only a matter of aesthetics as to which of these photographs is the best. Depending on the selection of the shutter speed, you can freely control the expression of movement.

2) Effects of Changing the Aperture (
More info relating to this topic)
Because this camera is an AE camera with shutter speed priority, when you change the shutter speed, the aperture will also change. If you change the speed by one gradation, the aperture also changes the equivalent of one gradation. Aperture changes have an effect on the photographic expression as follows: The lens aperture controls the zone of sharpness in the subject field which is observed in the viewfinder or recorded on the film.

Aperture Priority Photography After having given careful thought to the results of aperture adjustments, when the f/stop has been determined before shooting, press the exposure preview switch while looking into the viewfinder. Then turn the shutter speed dial until the meter needle on the right of the viewfinder reaches the f/stop desired.

Depth-of-Field
(
More info relating to this topic) When a certain subject is brought into focus, there is only a limited range in the foreground and background of the subject which can be kept clearly in focus. This zone of sharpness in the subject field is depth-of-field.

DOF.jpg
There are two methods of confirming the extent of the depth of the field: by stopping down the lens diaphragm or by reading a value from the depth-of-field scale on the lens.


Confirming the Depth-of-Field by:
1). Stopping-Down the Lens Diaphragm. Wind the film and determine the aperture required for the subject by metering, then set the f/stop by turning the aperture ring after disengaging the aperture ring from the "A" mark. 2). Press the stopped-down lever until it locks. Once locked, the depth-of-field can be checked by looking into the viewfinder. Thus, the extent of the depth-of-field can be seen as the zone of sharpness in the subject field observed on the screen. When the stoppeddown lever's release button is pressed, full aperture metering will be restored.

3). After having turned the aperture ring to the maximum f/stop on the lens, reset it to the "A" mark. Otherwise, you will not be able to obtain the correct automatic exposure for the next shot.


Stopping-down of the FD lenses should only be done
after advancing the film. Should you not advance the film, the stopping-down of the lens diaphragm would only be possible up to the previous exposures aperture. Also, when the aperture ring is set at the "A" mark, the stopped-down lever cannot be pressed.

Generally, the depth-of-field will become deeper as the aperture becomes smaller, and shallower as the aperture becomes larger. A shorter focal length as well as a greater subject distance will also attain deeper zone of depth-of-field. Comparing an interchangeable 28mm lens with a standard 50mm lens set at the same f/stop, the 28mm lens's depth-of-field will be greater. And when the photographic distance changes, the depth-of-field changes, too. For example, if the same subject is photographed from three and then from seven meters away, the foreground and background of the subject will be deeper at the greater distance.

4) Depth-of-Field Scale on the Lens Most manual focus lenses has excellent depth-of-field scale engraved on the lens barrel, shown as a series of f/numbers on each side of the distance index mark opposite the distance scale. Focusing and depth-of-field are so closely interrelated that the depthof-field scale is engraved together with the distance scale.You can tell the extent of depth-of-field from the distance scale.

DOF lens.jpg
For example, if you use the camera with a standard 50mm lens that is focused on a subject at medium distance, say 3m with the aperture set at f/8, the depth-of-field extends from 2.4m to 4.5m. This tells you that with the 50mm lens focused at 3m and the subject between 2.4m and 4.5m the film image will be reasonably sharp.

Using the Self-Timer Obvious uses for the self-timer are selfportraits and the inclusion of the photographer in the picture. The self-timer, though, can also be used in place of a cable release to release the shutter gently and smoothly in close range work like photomicrography or copying. Push the electronic self-timer lever forward, then press the shutter button, and the shutter will be released 10 seconds iater. The camera memorizes the exposure value the very instant the self-timer is activated by pressing the shutter button. While the selftimer is in operation, the self-timer lamp flashes on and off. After you finish taking a picture the self-timer lever should be reset to its orignal position. Otherwise, it will function again the next time you press the shutter button.

Seltimer lever.jpg
Exposure will be automatically determined at the instant the shutter button is pressed, and not when the picture is actually taken. Therefore', avoid standing directly in front of the lens when you press the shutter button as the AE control may miscalculate the proper exposure.

To prevent stray light from entering the viewfinder from the rear and possibly affect-ing the meter reading, it is a good idea to cover the eyepiece with the viewfinder cover which is inserted into the accessory shoe. This cover can be attached to the holder on the viewfinder eyepiece. After doing so, press the shutter button.

Cancelling the Self-Timer Operation If you should want to cancel the selftimer operation after having pressed the shutter button, depress the battery check button on the top side of the camera. Then, the self-timer lamp stops blinking and the self-timer operation will be cancelled. If the battery check button is not depressed and the self-timer lever is returned to its original position, the shutter will be released.

Eyepice blind.jpg
Note: A built-in shutter eyepiece blind was eventually provided in the later Canon A-1 - not for the AE-1 yet, but some referred the Minolta XD-7 was the first model to have that considerate feature incorporated.


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