Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon F Motor - Battery Packs and Accessories


Nikon 250-Exposure Bulk Film Loader (Pix shown here is with the 250 exposure film cassette)

Because I am being exceptionally lazy, I'm just going to repeat the F250's loading instructions:
  1. put the bulk-film supply on the film drum spindle, with the film coming over the axis, not under.
  2. put the MZ-1's spindle on the winding spool

    Photo Showcase on Nikon F250 |

  1. trim leader (to appox. 3cm long and 2cm wide) and thread film into the MZ-1's spindle, taking care to engage the sprockets and passing film over the axis of the MZ-1's spindle
  2. swing the film pressure lever over the film
  3. pull and turn the exposure-frame dial to set the total number of frames to be wound
  4. wind (at appox. 2-3 frames/sec) until you reach the preset, which will cause the winding to stop
  5. cut the film approximately halfway between spools

Remember to do all this in a darkroom. The preset dial has glow-in-the-dark numerals to help you along, although they are possibly made from tritium instead of phosphorescent paint.

Grey Scale.jpg

MZ-1 250-Exposure Cassette

The MZ-1 is one of Nikon's most enduring accessories, meaning that the same cassettes you bought for your F250 can be used in your MF-24. Not even the BR-2 can be used so nicely.

Yes! I hope to bore you by again describing how to open the cassette:

  1. press the silver button under the "J" in "Japan"
  2. rotate the shell relative to the top plate until the openings in the two halves line up
  3. separate the two halves

If that wasn't enough, here's how to close it, again!

  1. slide "bottom half" over "top half"
  2. turn "top half" clockwise until you hear two clicks, meaning that the catch has fallen into place

36-Exposure Cassette

Nikon's reloadable standard cassette, recommended for use with the F36, doesn't have any felt. As a result, it is probably a bit faster to use and more battery-efficient (less drag), but given the cheapness of batteries and the convenience of preloaded film, there is no compelling reason to use it today.

Pistol Grip Early type for F36 and F250

Switching Cord for Model II Grip permits electrical operation of F36 motor drive with cordless battery pack.

Mechanical Cable for Model II Grip is used to trigger the shutter release on the camera body.

This Pistol Grip has a microswitch and may be used with either motorised or non-motorised cameras, as it accepts both the motor connecting cord or a cable release. It is appropriate for motorised cameras with the Cord Pack and has a cable for its attachment. It offers single-shot or continuous mode.

Pistol Grip Model 2

This Pistol Grip is appropriate for only motorised cameras with cordless battery packs (i.e. Cordless Pack or MB-2/3). It connects to the motor drive via a cord; it offers single-shot or continuous mode. With all pistol grips, don't attach it to the tripod socket of the old non-AI 300f/4.5, as the F36 with Cordless Pack will interfere with the fit.

ST Pistol Grip

for use with standard battery pack is equipped with trigger-controlled micro switch and cord for electrical operation of F36 or F250 motor drive.
30 feet Extension Cord

A 3-conductor cord which leads directly into the Standard Battery Pack to permit a Nikon F equipped with either F36 or F250 motor drive to be operated from a distance up to 30 feet.

Wireless Control Model 2

Transmitter (using 4 transistors)
Receiver (using 20 transistors)
Transmission Frequency:
27.120 mHz (or any other frequencies specified by respective countries) (ed. -- not sure if it's Mega or milli-Hz)
f0: 2300 Hz
f1: 2500 Hz
f2: 2700 Hz
f3: 2900 Hz
1 km (0.6 mi) maximum
300m (1000 ft) typical
Power Source:
Transmitter: 8 1.5V "AA"-type cells
Receiver: 4 1.5V "AA"-type cells
Dimensions and Weight:
Transmitter: appox. 40 x 68 x 200mm; 760g (w/ batteries)
Receiver: appox. 40 x 85 x 200mm; 800g (w/ batteries)
Transmitter: appox. 1.6 x 2.7 x 7.9 in.; 27 oz. (w/ batteries)
Receiver: appox. 1.6 x 3.3 x 7.9 in.; 28.5 oz. (w/ batteries)

You can directly hook the receiver into the Cordless Pack via a special cord. Otherwise, you need a different cord to hook the receiver across R1 and R2 of the Relay Box, for use with the Cord Pack. Since the receiver has two "OUTPUT" sockets, you can connect a couple of remote motorised cameras to fire simultaneously.

The cord that comes standard with the Wireless Remote set has the appropriate plug for an "OUTPUT" socket on one end and two leads coming out the other end, one red and one black. These are meant to be plugged into the R1 and R2 terminals of the Relay Box, but may be adapted (via a two-prong plug) to use on the Cordless Pack. Button 1 on the Transmitter fires "OUTPUT 1", Button 2 fires "OUTPUT 2", and Button 3 fires both "OUTPUT"s. It is important to keep the button depressed as long as necessary -- 50 msec for shutter speeds 1/125 and faster, 1.5 sec for slower shutter speeds -- to fire the shutter.

NC-2 Intervalometer This instrument enables the motor-equipped Nikon F to take pictures automatically at predetermined intervals from '/: second to more than 16 minutes. Once started it requires no attention until the last exposure has been made. Time-lapse photography, as this technique is called, finds application in virtually every field of research and development. It is one of many areas where the F250 motor drive with its tremendous film capacity provides ready-made capabilities far beyond the scope of any other 35mm system.
The Nikon Intervalometer uses a 30-volt battery housed inside the unit. Where the motor drive is equipped with Standard Battery Pack, the Intervalometer is used with the Relay Box accessory. In the case of the Cordless Battery Pack, the Intervalometer is connected directly.

Time Intervals:
0.5, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50 sec. available as base intervals
base intervals may be multipled by 2, 4, or 10 times
Power Source:
8 "AA"-type batteries
external 12V DC source (no amperage given)
Size and Weight:
115 x 150 x 115mm, 661g
4.5 x 6 x 4.5 in., 1.5 lb.

The Nikon NC-2 offers fairly good accuracy (+/- 3%) in timing, and is remarkably flexible. One large knob selects the base time delay between consecutive shots, and a smaller knob to its left selects the "multiplier" factor; e.g. to set a 4-second delay, you could either set the "multiplier" to 1x and the base interval to 4 sec. or "multiplier" at 4x and a base interval of 1 sec. Immediately below the "multiplier" knob are two switches: one toggle switch controls the power (on/off/savings) and one push button controls the timer start. The power switch may be turned to the "save" position to select a battery-saving circuit when the NC-2 is to be used for longer than three hours. The push button is depressed once to begin automatic timing; while the NC-2 is timing, it may be depressed at any time to immediately fire the shutter (the automatic timer does not reset after you press this button, so it will operate as scheduled, regardless of how many times you press).

Three sockets are on top of the NC-2, a remote control (two-prong) socket and external power (coaxial) socket on the left and a timing out (two-prong) socket on the right. When the external power socket is in use, the batteries inside the unit are disconnected. The timing out socket is connected to either the Cordless Pack (via the MEx cords) or the Relay Box (via the AE-x cords); AE-x cords may be connected to the remote control socket to remotely begin timing or immediately fire the shutter, as the push button on the front of the NC-2 does.

Relay Box

Used with Standard Battery Pack, permits a Nikon F equipped with either F36 or F250 motor drive to be operated through a conventional 2-conductor cord, terminating in any circuit closing device: manual switch, intervalometer, radio control receiver, or other. May also be operated by button on relay box. Not required with Cordless Battery Pack.
(Early version of the Relay box by Nikon)

The Relay Box made all kinds of remote-control photography possible with the F and F36 or F250. It is a fairly unassuming box not really bristling with terminals, but with enough to cause some confusion. The left side of the box has four terminals; the ones close to the top edge, from left to right, are the power-supply terminal to the motor (labelled "M") and the power-input terminal from the battery pack (labelled "B"). Near the bottom edge are the DC input terminals, clearly labelled "+" and "-", which may be used in lieu of the battery pack input. The right side has two terminals, R1 and R2, which must be connected by a switching mechanism of some kind, via one of the AE-x cords (or by a switch of your own design). The top of the box has a S/C rocker switch and a shutter tripping button. Yes, this one, too, overrides the one on the back of the F36 or F250. The Relay Box is most appropriate for long runs of remote cords or adapting the Cord Pack to more remoteness.

The Relay Box is probably amazingly difficult to get. If you want to drive yourself crazy, you might want to hunt up the accessory AC mains adapter for the Relay Box (which hooks into the DC input terminals and supplies DC current sufficient for up to 4 motorised cameras) So long as the resistance across R1 and R2 does not exceed 100 Ohms, your wire can be as long as you like (my source quotes 1-2 mi. (1.6-3.2km)!). It looks as though the time lag between closing R1 and R2 and releasing the shutter is approximately 40-80 msec, with a synchronisation error between simultaneously-fired cameras of around 20 msec. Just to make your hunt harder, the Relay Box was originally supplied with a 1m connecting cord between it and the battery pack.

Battery tester

Miniature voltmeter instantly checks condition of motor batteries in Standard Battery Pack. Indicates voltage as well as the point when batteries should be replaced.

| Back | to Index Page - Motor Drive for Nikon F
| Next | Part II - Batteries for Motor

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Recommended links to understand more technical details related to the Nikkor F-mount and production Serial Number: by: my friend, Rick Oleson by: Hansen, Lars Holst

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