There are times where one way or another, things don't function normally. Say, if a motor drive "jams" during operation, this usually means that the controls have either been operated incorrectly or in the wrong sequence, and the coupling mechanism has dis-engaged. Should this occur, you can turn the MD-12's power switch off and make one exposure with the camera's shutter release button, remembering, in the case of the FM (Serial No. below 3,000,000), to switch over to manual film advance. You may find that the motor drive did not finish advancing the film. If so, complete the film advance using the camera's film advance lever, then press the shutter release button. Do not advance the film. Switch the motor drive back on and, in the case of the FM (Serial No. below 3,000,000), revert to the motor drive mode. The motor drive should advance the film ready for the next exposure. If this does not clear the malfunction or you are unable to move the film advance lever at all, do not try to force the controls. Turn the motor drive off once more and simply remove the motor drive from the camera. This will clear the tension in the film advance mechanism, allowing you to advance or finish advancing the film and make one exposure, again do not advance the film. Reattach the motor drive and, in the case of the FM (Serial No. below 3,000,000), switch to motor drive operation. When you switch the motor drive back on, the film should then advance one frame ready for the next exposure. Should you trigger the motor drive with the shutter speed dial set to "B" the absence of an "exposure complete signal" may result in the camera's mirror locking up and the shutter remaining open. To restore normal operation in the event of this happening, merely move the shutter speed dial away from "B." At all times during motor drive operation, the film advance lever should remain flush with the back of the camera. If you move it out to its standoff position, the motor drive will stop. Returning the lever to its flush position will automatically start the motor drive once more.
What
is the function for the four pins electrical contacts in the MD-11/MD12 ?
The Nikon FM/FE series has four motor drive electrical terminals at the base. The
Nikon FA has six contacts instead. The four electrical connections in the FM/FE series
models communicate with the motor drives in the MD-11 and MD-12. Two of them are
connected to battery negative at the battery holder. Another connection wires up
to the motor drive switch across the body at the bottom. The last contact is used
so that the circuit in the drive can be power by the motor drive. The MD-15 offers
more, because apart from motor drive actions, it is used to power the Nikon FA as
well (Once it is attached, it will automatically overrides and takes over the camera's
power, regardless whether the camera has a power cell inside, the extra contacts
are meant for that purpose. The location of the four principle contacts are the same,
thus, both MD-12 and MD-11 can still be used on the Nikon FA with a slight delay
action for the shutter to react, thus, maximum speed for FA/MD-11/MD-12 can only
reach and peak at 2.7 fps, instead of the normal 3.5 fps.
WARNING: The MD-11 has no internal auto power swich-off circuitry as with the MD-12 (That is what the main difference between MD11 and MD12, you have to turn the power to 'off' to avoid draining of the battery from your camera; secondly, the film advance mechanism on the MD-11 is slightly different from the MD-12, on the 's' (Single) mode, the film will only advancing after you have lift your finger from the shutter release button on the grip. While the MD-12 will immediately advance the film upon tripping the shutter and is ready for the next exposure. Other that, it is minor (Like the delay circuit connecting to the LED pilot lamp behind the MD-12).
When your
motor drive doesn't wind the film, don't panic and rush your MDrive for repair service.
First, check the the shutter
release pin
which it must be in a retracted position when attaching the camera to the MD-11/MD-12.
Detach the drive first, just mount the drive closely with the four electrical contact
pin in contact with the metal surface at the base of the camera and this will activate
the motor for a while and the shutter release pin will retract again if protruded
earlier. Note: MD power switch and MD film advance switch are used by both the MD-15
and MD-12. When used with a camera like the FA, the second release switch for the
MD-12 is turned on by the stroke of MD-12's shutter release pin.
- Credit: A quick
survival Tip from Mr. Yong of Shriro
Malaysia -
* Credit: Shriro Malaysia, distributor of Nikon optical products for providing this manual. The technical team members in Shriro. Mr Poon of Foto Poon in Ipoh for his expertise in the MD-11/MD-12.
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Others:- Nikon AF-TTL Speedlights | SB-20 (1986) | SB-22 (1987) | SB-23 | SB-24 (1988) | SB-25 (1991/2) | SB-26 (1994) | SB-27(1997) | SB-28 (1997) | Nikon SB-29(s) (2000) | Nikon SB-30 (2003) | Nikon SB-600 (2004) | Nikon SB-800 (2003) Nikon AF-TTL Speedlight DX-Series: Nikon SB-28DX (1999) | SB-50DX (2001) | SB-80DX (2002)
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Application lenses: Micro-Nikkor Lenses - 50mm~55mm -60mm 85mm -105mm 200mm Micro-Zoom 70-180mm Perspective Control (PC) - 28mm 35mm PC-Micro 85mm Dedicated Lenses for Nikon F3AF: AF 80mm f/2.8 | AF 200mm f/3.5 EDIF Depth of Field Control (DC): 105mm 135mm Medical Nikkor: 120mm 200mm Reflex-Nikkor Lenses - 500mm 1000mm 2000mm Others: Noct Nikkor | OP-Nikkor | UV Nikkor 55mm 105mm | Focusing Units | Bellows-Nikkor 105mm 135mm Nikon Series E Lenses: 28mm35mm50mm100mm135mm | E-Series Zoom lenses: 36~72mm75~150mm70~210mm |
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Recommended links to understand more technical details
related to the Nikkor F-mount and production Serial Number:
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-153.html by: my
friend, Rick Oleson
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/fmount.htm by: Hansen,
Lars Holst
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm
http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html
W A R N I N G: The New G-SERIES Nikkor lenses have no aperture ring on the lens, they CANNOT ADJUST APERTURES with any of these manual focus Nikon FE series SLR camera models; please ignore some portion of the content contained herein this site where it relates.
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A contributing effort to Michael C Liu's Classic Nikon Site.
Credit: Chuck Hester for some of his beautiful images used in this site; Ted Wengelaar®, Holland for his continuous flow of input; Lars Holst Hansen, Danish 'Hawkeye' who shares the same passion; Mr Poon from Poon photo for their input; Ms Miss Rissa (Sales Manager) & members of the Technical Service dept. of Shriro Malaysia, local distributor of Nikon cameras in Malaysia & Singapore, in providing so many useful input to make this site possible. Special thanks to Mr MC Lau, who has helped with his images of the MF-12 databack. Michael Tan, Pertama Photo (603-2926505) for lending his original Titanium Shutter Display Unit. Dave Hoyt who has prepared the introductory page and offer some images of his FE2 in this site.. Hiura Shinsaku, Nikomat ML, Japan for his contribution on all the various images; A contributing site to a long lost friend on the Net. Note: Certain content and images appeared in this site were either scanned from official marketing leaflets, brochures published by Nikon and/or contribution from surfers who claimed originality of their own work to publish in this site based on educational merits. The creator of this site will not be responsible for any discrepancies that may arise from such possible dispute except rectifying them after verification."Nikon", "Nikkormat", "Nippon Kokagu KK" & "Nikkor" are registered tradename of Nikon Corporation Inc., Japan. Made witha PowerMac.